Corrosion control body

Probably, most motorists after purchasing a new or used car in second place after the theft deterrent problem is the question of corrosion body.
For a new car, on the back of which there is no corrosion and factory coating is new and clean, it measures the warning order. But they give the maximum effect.
For used car start from the fact that his body is more or less impressed corrosion and completely get rid of it is impossible. Therefore, in this case, you have the maximum suspend it and protect unaffected areas.

Watch for body, wash, polish it, and it will be protected. Bottom, even the most resistant treated to mechanical impact PVC plastisol, not a long time (2-3 years) to resist the effects of sand, gravel, salt and temperature extremes. Under the influence of these factors factory coating deteriorates.

 The wings are in the same position as the bottom. Moreover, there are wings and pockets where gather and accumulate dirt and moisture. Even the new car is worth before using to remove the wheels and meticulously inspect quality of the application of mastic asphalt on the inner surfaces of the wings, especially in the location of the headlights. And the factory can make mistakes, resulting in a wing becomes "victim" of corrosion.

 No less vulnerable internal cavity thresholds grounds central pillars, side members. They are processed at the plant, but the probability of faults is not excluded. In a particularly difficult position thresholds are, if clogged drainage holes used to drain the water penetrated into the rapids.


 Subjected to additional corrosion protection just bought a car - is simple enough. Only necessary materials and tools for its application. Much more difficult to perform this operation on a car that already operated. Here the lion's share of time and physical effort must be expended to prepare the surface. It makes no sense to delay this dirty, time-consuming and demanding operation for later. Take care of the car handling, pre-prepared for a wire brush, wooden scraper, sandpaper, paintbrush, white spirit, rust converter, rust paste and rags.

 Getting to work, it must be remembered that labor and money will be spent only under conditions of good surface preparation. Must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt, old ruined cover, all kinds of fats. Only to skim the surface clean with a metal grip mastic be reliable. Wash the prepared surface is best poddavleniem powerful jet of water. Getting rid of the dirt, you can see the condition of the old surface. If it started to flake off, a metal brush and scraper will bring the matter to an end. Wire brush - a reliable tool for the removal of loose and the formation of rust. Doing the dirty work, stripped sandpaper surface degreased with white spirit.

  Chemists have invented a very effective structure - rust converter. In a short time, this compound applied to the surface of red rust, a miracle. Attacks become grayish red, and rust is converted to a more stable and not harmful compounds. Processed transducer surface ready for the application of anti-corrosion materials to them. Mastic and paste depending on their viscosity can be applied by brush, trowel or hand in glove. The main condition: there should not be exposed places.

 Most technologically advanced for manual application, bituminous mastics. They are well withstand moisture and salt, but not enough to stand against the sand and gravel, and have a low resistance to frost. At low temperatures, the coating becomes brittle, and only a stone to polish began to crumble. Often, the short-term protection of the bottom and the wings used wax formulations. They have their own advantages and disadvantages. They penetrate well and fill pores, cracks, flanging and pockets, but can not stand the shock. After thinking, inventive motorists to plot the wax formulations over bitumen than provide less brittle at low temperatures.

 As already mentioned, all the details that are box section are especially susceptible to corrosion. This is no accident. In the cavities due to lack of ventilation is always wet. In the gaps between the spot welds can access water and dirt, and given that the corrosion protection composition of these cavities is not always possible, as it should, then it becomes clear why the attack "was chosen" these places.

 Before the 50's almost no cavities processed, saved their only significant thickness of the metal. Developed in Sweden called ML - a method of corrosion control (the first letters of the company name "Motorman Laurin") allowed the "direct" the aging and deterioration of box designs. Naturally, the new method is required related materials that could seal the cavities, as well as uniform thin layer sprinkle them over the surface. This required special equipment. Domestic drug specifically designed for application in the cavities, is Movil. The product is interesting in that it can be applied to surfaces that have been previously coated with a light oil and are affected by corrosion. This is important, as is not always possible to clean the inside of the box-like structures from the old coatings.

 Car owners have to deal with serious problems, especially with the lack of equipment for applying the product. To alleviate some of the problem of those who, having no other option, I decided to self-handle body, we advise to use the experience gained in this area. In principle, the equipment is very simple. It works by spraying under pressure 6.4 kg / cm, which is sufficient to spray drug Movil. Developed and a working body - jet that creates a torch spray. Nozzle with a plastic tube connected to the extension of the elastic gun KRU-1 and inserted through existing or newly drilled holes in the area of ​​a box element.

 If you do not have such a device, offering home-made design of installations and sprayers. It fits all: hand and foot pumps, spray guns, sprayers, sprinklers.
That's one of the simplest designs. You can use the spray nozzle from the usual cologne spray by soldering it to the brass tube and drill nozzle of 1.2 mm at the tip. To the inner wall of the tube to solder the brass tube through which flows a preservative. Pump (it may be more powerful) hose from the tube. To file a preservative to the tube used PVC tubing. Spray this design ensures torch spray drug Movil diameters up to 0.2 m at a constant air supply,

 Places application of anticorrosive material under the hood and in the luggage compartment of the service stations are cleaned with water. At home, where the possibilities are limited to dry, you can thoroughly clean these areas with a damp cloth. The preferred treatment of the body to carry out on the lift.

 The basic amount of processed points located on the bottom.

 To get into the rapids to the spare wheel and the cross bar under the front seats, you need to get a special rubber-cork stoppers. They are two on each side for the front fenders, one piece on each side of the arch in the rear wheel into the center of a spare wheel, one on each side of the cross member under the front seats. You should also clean the drains thresholds.

 Underbody, wheel arches and inaccessible cavities must be thoroughly rinsed with water under pressure, otherwise the work done will be in vain. Use compressed air can dry more quickly washed the bodywork. The wheels do not interfere, they should be removed by setting the vehicle on the stand, and the discs, brake drums, rear axle, drive shaft and transmission need to wrap the paper. It remains open the doors, hood, trunk lid, and begin processing.

 If you look around the bumpers and wheel covers car, which operated more than 4-5 years, you will surely find them corroded. Consequently, chrome - not such a reliable protection. Indeed, the chrome plating is a weak point - is porous coating. It is for this reason that part is first coated with layers of copper and nickel, and then chrome plated. However, moisture, salt, sulfur dioxide, and behind them and find ways to attack and penetrate the coating through the pores. One thing is clear: decorative items must be maintained in good condition. Technology care of these details can be divided into two stages: the removal of dirt (Car Wash), immediately remove traces of corrosion and tarnishing. The coating layer (copper - nickel - chromium) is very thin (90 - 110 mm), so wipe bumpers, hoods and other decorative chrome parts with a dry cloth harmful. Coating is scratched and rapidly destroyed. After washing, wipe the parts dry and then treated "Avtoochistitelem chrome." Get involved in this line-up does not follow, as one of its components is the abrasive material that removing plaque corrosion, removes both the coating. Application for avtoochistitelya chrome once in 2-3 months should provide a good condition of these parts.

 Winter environment is complicated, and to help "Avtoochistitelyu for chrome" comes protective paint or grease. Covering lubricated parts, do not forget about their back sides, as the details have a habit of rust on all sides.