Automotive filters: types and their purpose

Air filters clean the air entering the engine from harmful contaminants, ensuring optimal working conditions and reducing abrasion by friction engine components interacting

In the process, the internal combustion engine (ICE) consume large amounts of air. Established that (on average) for the combustion of 1 liter of fuel required as many as 10 000 cubic decimeters air, which, depending on the climate and season contains various types of pollution, such as dust, pollen, insects, etc. They can cause damage to the engine, thereby significantly reducing its service life. That is why the filters kotoryemogut hold up to 99.9% of impurities in the air and falling into the engine air intake system built into the car.

Air filters consist of a hood, located near the engine, and a replaceable filter tips (cartridge).

By design, the air filters are divided into light, used in passenger cars, pickup trucks and SUVs, and heavy, mounted on trucks. Light filters have a rectangle or circle. Round filters are used in the older cars, and have a relatively small amount of filter material compared to the body. In this sense, the rectangular filter is much better. Therefore, they are used in new models of cars. Another advantage of the panel filters - their ecological value. Most of these filters do not contain metal parts, which facilitates the processing of used filters.


Oil filters effectively remove from the engine or transmission oil harmful pollution resulting from abrasion and degradation of engine oil into each internal combustion engine (ICE), a oil filter. Their function is to prevent the entry of any external contamination in engine lubrication system, and at the same time to remove any contamination that was created during engine operation. The main sources of pollution: particulate matter trapped in the combustion chamber with the air and fuel, wear products moving engine parts, water and carbon residues formed during the combustion process, the results of the collapse of the engine oil.

Modern engine oil filters are different designs. They can be divided into two groups, according to a method of preventing contamination. Barrier filters, which is used as a cleaning layer porous material absorbs pollution when oil flows through it. Energy filter, which is separated from the oil pollution in the vortex field of gravitational and magnetic forces. Engine lubrication system equipped with one or the other type of filters, or both simultaneously. The use of a suitable type of filter in the lubrication system of the car is its type and is determined during the development of the engine.

Placing two filters in the lubrication increases cleaning efficiency and extending the duration of the filters. Fuel filters provide a complete cleaning of the fuel particles of particulate matter, especially dangerous for elements of the fuel system and engine. Fuel supply advanced engine includes many fine elements, whose correct operation is required for the smooth operation of the engine. Fuel pump, carburetor or injectors are very sensitive to any impurities in the fuel. Determined that each liter of fuel may contain up to a milligram of various impurities. Special filters are installed in the fuel system of the vehicle to provide the best operating conditions of the engine, and extend the life of its parts. The purpose of these filters is to remove solid components, water, paraffin embedding of the fuel, and precipitation of organic matter (bacteria in the water that enters the fuel). Real efficiency fuel filter depends on the quality of fuel used, as well as the structural features of the engine. In the carburetor fuel systems of gasoline engines with filters 99% efficiency retain particles up to 8 mm in diameter, and fuel injection systems, filters achieve the same efficiency only with particles of diameter 3.2 mm. Obtaining such a high degree of purification and, at the same time, maintaining a long filter life, made possible by the use of multi-stage purification. All filters used in the fuel systems - flow, and therefore all of the fuel that enters the combustion chamber must pass through them. Moving from the fuel tank to the combustion chamber, the fuel is at least through one filter, but sometimes even three.

Hydraulic filters are adapted to operate in extreme conditions due to high pressure and dynamic changes in oil consumption. During the entire period of operation keep the high efficiency removal of contaminants from the oil.

Hydraulic filters are used in various devices and mechanisms, often working under difficult conditions. The reliability of the hydraulic system depends, in large part, on the properties of oil and reliability of each element (pump, servo, filling, valves, etc.) are subject to high pressure, friction and other mechanical influences. To ensure the best operating conditions of hydraulic special filters to clean the hydraulic oil.

The company is in Russia Dalasi automotive filter "Sakura", "j-Sakura" The products of these brands for a long time on the Russian market and has established itself only in a positive way. ISO 9000 and 9001, the system 100% quality control at the end of the process, a wide range of products, including filters for heavy equipment and hydraulic systems, and low price make them very attractive to the consumer. Filter JSakura / Sakura - are available for each vehicle and prolong the life of your engine.

Starting a cold winter injection engine.

Here's a bit of theory and one of the recommendations on this topic is very important to have a cold start is where the fuel is supplied during this very start. On older, carbureted models with low compression all happened quite simply, the air damper closes, the amount of air at the start to adjust the air valve, and the amount of fuel determined throttle when starting. Fuel from the carburetor at this point enters the inlet tube having a sufficient length. Fuel way as a film on the inner surface of the inlet tube so, too, was quite long and extended in time. Note first that metered amount of fuel in the form of a film on the walls of the intake manifold is much easier than in the vapor phase. The path from the nozzle to the combustion chamber to the engine vpryskovym several tens of times less than the carburettor version. Let me remind you that the injector sprays fuel directly on the plate that opens into the combustion chamber inlet valve. Enormous importance to the fact how much fuel enters the vapor phase at this point. It is completely determined by the volatility of fuel. Conditions for the ignition so strongly may vary due to differences in the fractional part, that are difficult to control and regulation. If the gasoline version is not too much because the fuel will crawl through an inlet pipe for a long time and eventually evaporates all the same, then all options vpryskovym much sadder: for not having had time to evaporate once - still burn can not. Our calibration is already done under the heavier fuel than envisaged European standard. We finishing work conducted on fuel with a vapor pressure of 400 kPa instead of European 800 ... 900 kPa. Their gasoline evaporate twice as good and mostly because of European cars in Europe much easier to start. The main thing - do not fill them in our heavy gasoline. (Which, incidentally, is also often dirty, and water). Now I know why the car is started with the central injection better distributed - it is longer and more in the area of ​​the site from the fuel injector to the cylinder. 2112 engine to run reliably at-30Cto: Motor synthetic oil 0W40 - quite expensive. Batteryat least 65Ach.

Winter fuel or the worst, but with stable parameters to calibrate the engine under it, that is. Candles did not 18DVRM A17 ... and preferably Bosch, Brisk, Champion with appropriate heat rating. From the 3rd paragraph the biggest problems. Gasoline in Russia at any brand. Winter - summer and at the same time do not like anything. The problem is complex and will stand as long as all the components of finishing work, especially gasoline and oil will not be the standard. Now be advised on what they brought. And, perhaps, it is better for the domestic consumer, because the problems start with-10C, and in the same French below +5 C is not seen.

Corrosion control body

Probably, most motorists after purchasing a new or used car in second place after the theft deterrent problem is the question of corrosion body.
For a new car, on the back of which there is no corrosion and factory coating is new and clean, it measures the warning order. But they give the maximum effect.
For used car start from the fact that his body is more or less impressed corrosion and completely get rid of it is impossible. Therefore, in this case, you have the maximum suspend it and protect unaffected areas.

Watch for body, wash, polish it, and it will be protected. Bottom, even the most resistant treated to mechanical impact PVC plastisol, not a long time (2-3 years) to resist the effects of sand, gravel, salt and temperature extremes. Under the influence of these factors factory coating deteriorates.

 The wings are in the same position as the bottom. Moreover, there are wings and pockets where gather and accumulate dirt and moisture. Even the new car is worth before using to remove the wheels and meticulously inspect quality of the application of mastic asphalt on the inner surfaces of the wings, especially in the location of the headlights. And the factory can make mistakes, resulting in a wing becomes "victim" of corrosion.

 No less vulnerable internal cavity thresholds grounds central pillars, side members. They are processed at the plant, but the probability of faults is not excluded. In a particularly difficult position thresholds are, if clogged drainage holes used to drain the water penetrated into the rapids.


 Subjected to additional corrosion protection just bought a car - is simple enough. Only necessary materials and tools for its application. Much more difficult to perform this operation on a car that already operated. Here the lion's share of time and physical effort must be expended to prepare the surface. It makes no sense to delay this dirty, time-consuming and demanding operation for later. Take care of the car handling, pre-prepared for a wire brush, wooden scraper, sandpaper, paintbrush, white spirit, rust converter, rust paste and rags.

 Getting to work, it must be remembered that labor and money will be spent only under conditions of good surface preparation. Must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt, old ruined cover, all kinds of fats. Only to skim the surface clean with a metal grip mastic be reliable. Wash the prepared surface is best poddavleniem powerful jet of water. Getting rid of the dirt, you can see the condition of the old surface. If it started to flake off, a metal brush and scraper will bring the matter to an end. Wire brush - a reliable tool for the removal of loose and the formation of rust. Doing the dirty work, stripped sandpaper surface degreased with white spirit.

  Chemists have invented a very effective structure - rust converter. In a short time, this compound applied to the surface of red rust, a miracle. Attacks become grayish red, and rust is converted to a more stable and not harmful compounds. Processed transducer surface ready for the application of anti-corrosion materials to them. Mastic and paste depending on their viscosity can be applied by brush, trowel or hand in glove. The main condition: there should not be exposed places.

 Most technologically advanced for manual application, bituminous mastics. They are well withstand moisture and salt, but not enough to stand against the sand and gravel, and have a low resistance to frost. At low temperatures, the coating becomes brittle, and only a stone to polish began to crumble. Often, the short-term protection of the bottom and the wings used wax formulations. They have their own advantages and disadvantages. They penetrate well and fill pores, cracks, flanging and pockets, but can not stand the shock. After thinking, inventive motorists to plot the wax formulations over bitumen than provide less brittle at low temperatures.

 As already mentioned, all the details that are box section are especially susceptible to corrosion. This is no accident. In the cavities due to lack of ventilation is always wet. In the gaps between the spot welds can access water and dirt, and given that the corrosion protection composition of these cavities is not always possible, as it should, then it becomes clear why the attack "was chosen" these places.

 Before the 50's almost no cavities processed, saved their only significant thickness of the metal. Developed in Sweden called ML - a method of corrosion control (the first letters of the company name "Motorman Laurin") allowed the "direct" the aging and deterioration of box designs. Naturally, the new method is required related materials that could seal the cavities, as well as uniform thin layer sprinkle them over the surface. This required special equipment. Domestic drug specifically designed for application in the cavities, is Movil. The product is interesting in that it can be applied to surfaces that have been previously coated with a light oil and are affected by corrosion. This is important, as is not always possible to clean the inside of the box-like structures from the old coatings.

 Car owners have to deal with serious problems, especially with the lack of equipment for applying the product. To alleviate some of the problem of those who, having no other option, I decided to self-handle body, we advise to use the experience gained in this area. In principle, the equipment is very simple. It works by spraying under pressure 6.4 kg / cm, which is sufficient to spray drug Movil. Developed and a working body - jet that creates a torch spray. Nozzle with a plastic tube connected to the extension of the elastic gun KRU-1 and inserted through existing or newly drilled holes in the area of ​​a box element.

 If you do not have such a device, offering home-made design of installations and sprayers. It fits all: hand and foot pumps, spray guns, sprayers, sprinklers.
That's one of the simplest designs. You can use the spray nozzle from the usual cologne spray by soldering it to the brass tube and drill nozzle of 1.2 mm at the tip. To the inner wall of the tube to solder the brass tube through which flows a preservative. Pump (it may be more powerful) hose from the tube. To file a preservative to the tube used PVC tubing. Spray this design ensures torch spray drug Movil diameters up to 0.2 m at a constant air supply,

 Places application of anticorrosive material under the hood and in the luggage compartment of the service stations are cleaned with water. At home, where the possibilities are limited to dry, you can thoroughly clean these areas with a damp cloth. The preferred treatment of the body to carry out on the lift.

 The basic amount of processed points located on the bottom.

 To get into the rapids to the spare wheel and the cross bar under the front seats, you need to get a special rubber-cork stoppers. They are two on each side for the front fenders, one piece on each side of the arch in the rear wheel into the center of a spare wheel, one on each side of the cross member under the front seats. You should also clean the drains thresholds.

 Underbody, wheel arches and inaccessible cavities must be thoroughly rinsed with water under pressure, otherwise the work done will be in vain. Use compressed air can dry more quickly washed the bodywork. The wheels do not interfere, they should be removed by setting the vehicle on the stand, and the discs, brake drums, rear axle, drive shaft and transmission need to wrap the paper. It remains open the doors, hood, trunk lid, and begin processing.

 If you look around the bumpers and wheel covers car, which operated more than 4-5 years, you will surely find them corroded. Consequently, chrome - not such a reliable protection. Indeed, the chrome plating is a weak point - is porous coating. It is for this reason that part is first coated with layers of copper and nickel, and then chrome plated. However, moisture, salt, sulfur dioxide, and behind them and find ways to attack and penetrate the coating through the pores. One thing is clear: decorative items must be maintained in good condition. Technology care of these details can be divided into two stages: the removal of dirt (Car Wash), immediately remove traces of corrosion and tarnishing. The coating layer (copper - nickel - chromium) is very thin (90 - 110 mm), so wipe bumpers, hoods and other decorative chrome parts with a dry cloth harmful. Coating is scratched and rapidly destroyed. After washing, wipe the parts dry and then treated "Avtoochistitelem chrome." Get involved in this line-up does not follow, as one of its components is the abrasive material that removing plaque corrosion, removes both the coating. Application for avtoochistitelya chrome once in 2-3 months should provide a good condition of these parts.

 Winter environment is complicated, and to help "Avtoochistitelyu for chrome" comes protective paint or grease. Covering lubricated parts, do not forget about their back sides, as the details have a habit of rust on all sides.

Does the engine to warm up before going?

Answer to this question is not easy. On the one hand, with cold engine operation (especially with high load) actually accelerated wear, and not only because of lack of lubrication, but also on the temporary mismatch gap between those that are required. Indeed, only after the engine warms up, it reaches the set designer temperature at which the dilated parts interact correctly.

On the other hand, because of the idling engine works with a small heat transfer and heat slowly, so that when it is fully charged, - means to extend its running time in the worst mode.

However, the slow engine warming in its details do not appear dangerous thermal stresses, and at very fast heating, they are not excluded. It is known that for any changes in temperature of engine parts, in many cases there is any damage. Warping of the cylinder head or piston seizure is often explained by this.

As for foreign cars, their manufacturers do guided environmental requirements. It is believed that damage to the environment is unacceptable. Even if the trip on a cold engine is bad for his part, has to put up with this.

When it comes to domestic cars, correctly, perhaps, follow the factory instructions. Usually recommended to embark on a journey to reach the engine temperature at which it works stably without the "choke." It is approximately 40 - 50 ° C.

On cars with fuel injection temperature at which you can go on the road, may be lower.

How to avoid excessive consumption of fuel in the car?

In the current world situation, with regular fuel is dorozhaniem all overhead use the car. We present a few basic and fairly simple rules and guidelines to help the novice driver to avoid high fuel consumption in your car.

Regularly check the technical condition of your car. Serviceable, but not adjusted properly around the vehicle to fuel a 10% increase.

Keep an eye on tire pressure. Reduction of pressure in car tires with a 2.0 to 1.5 kg/cm2 kg/cm2 inevitably increases fuel consumption by about 3%. The measurement of the pressure in the tires should be able to cool them, because even after a minor run tire pressure increases.

Regularly adjust the alignment of your car.

Try to avoid unnecessary transport of cargo. Note that each 50 kg of extra load increases fuel consumption in your car by about 2%.

Using the air conditioner increases fuel consumption in the vehicle for about 10%.

Lead to excessive fuel as open windows, especially when the vehicle speed above 50 km / h. The value of over-dependent on the geometric features of the body of a vehicle, as well as how these windows are open.

Note that each subsequent inhibition involves acceleration. This, in turn, causes an increase in fuel consumption in the vehicle. Therefore, try to avoid sudden braking. Try to reduce the rate of advance of your car at the traffic lights (if you see the red light in front), intersections, etc.

If possible, try to avoid travel on your car during rush hour.

Try to go slowly and smoothly. Do not drive dramatically.

Before driving the engine warms up to the days when the temperature gauge begins to move. After such a mild warm-up while driving the gas pedal should be pressed slightly until the engine warms up completely.

When moving correctly select the appropriate gear.

Do not move at high speeds. Use basically the speed, which is optimal in terms of fuel economy for your vehicle. Typically, for most cars the most appropriate speed is in the range of 80-100 km / h.

Shut off the engine of your car when it is stopped for more than one minute.

Avoid long-term drive to low gear (eg, in traffic jams, etc.).

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On night road

Check out on the road - always some risk. He rises at dusk and at night all the more. To the usual dangers added physiological properties of the body. By night a little more active inhibitory processes, fatigue sets in after a day of stress, decreases alertness and reaction time.

Consequently, on the night road from the driver requires maximum attention and special care. It is clear that travel must be properly otdohnuvshim.Nikakogo-will, the dream - forget it!

Virtually the only advantage of an overnight trip - few cars, the road is not loaded and little noise movement. But this should not relax. And statistics show that accidents at night almost half. Maybe an empty track pushes driver to drive faster? Clearly makes clear - in racing we do not participate!

Overnight trip requires special and careful preparation. It is absolutely necessary to test the headlights, turn signals, clean all the windows. Unwashed windshield complicate the already difficult night vision. Yes, and more diffuse light oncoming cars.

Before the trip, the main attention is paid to the lighting device car, clean windows, check the operation of the headlights. Dirty windshield - a source of increased danger, as both difficult to review and scatters light coming from the headlights of cars driving on the wrong side.

Pick up the lighting of the dashboard. Too dim perception complicate the readings, too bright will be an additional source of irritation to the eyes. Switch inside mirror placed in the position for an overnight trip.

Prepared, checked ... can go.

Night Road. Headlights on, just as soon as it started getting dark. You should see all the other road users. Driving with headlights turned off neighbors is dangerous for you and for them.

When you stop the parking lights should remain on, especially if the area is not covered at all expensive or poorly lit. You either have to pull off the road completely, or drive away the car as far as possible to the extreme strip, and be sure to include where appropriate alarm.

What is the most dangerous road in the night? Overall opinion - lack of review. Indeed, often intuitively navigate the traffic situation, because the whole vision - twenty meters headlights illuminated the road. Hence it is clear - the higher the speed, the less accurately you can assess the situation.

Very insidious threat - a threat to dazzle car. If the junction with the oncoming car driver leaves the main beam, thus he shows his incivility and disrespect for others. There is a danger instant blindness. Panacea, unfortunately, from there, you can only advise to look at this point a little to the side, emphasizing attention to the sidelines.

If you notice Failure to disconnect from far distant lights of the car in their relation to it, you can: switch to low beam for 200 meters to the siding, carefully keep your distance to the vehicle ahead and note any defects, irregularities in the road.

Remind this counter on the rules of road etiquette posignalte short bursts beam. If the risk can not be avoided, keeping close to the right side of the road and keep sufficient room for maneuver to the side of the interval to the oncoming traffic.

On the night overtaking. They are more difficult and dangerous than during the day. Overtaking when approaching the car going forward switch to low beam, then check whether to allow overtaking signs and markings, analyze the situation, we verify the safety of the maneuver, turn left turn signal.

 At the time of departure to the next lane speed increases. Continuing, we see that the overtaking vehicle is in sight. Came up to overtake, you can switch to high beam (if the counter-movement) - it will help to better understand the situation on the road. After completing the overtaking return to your lane, activate the right turn signal.

Good reception - to select the track on the night a "leader" - a car that is calm, confident, with a constant speed. And you quietly follow it does not accelerate, just keep your distance. In this case, you will have time to react after it to changing circumstances on the road and on his errors.

Pass inspection

Security can only be efficient car. This is an indisputable truth. That is why the technical condition of the car should be not only the owner, but also the state on behalf of the traffic police, obliging motorist regular inspection of the vehicle.
How often? According to the rules, introduced in 2007, the newly acquired vehicle must pass technical inspection in the first year from the date of manufacture. The machine age of seven inspected every two years and older - once a year. But if the vehicle is designed to carry more than eight passengers (excluding the driver), then it has to be inspected every six months
Should not be delayed visit to the traffic police to the last day (you never know what can prevent it, and then you do not meet the deadline.)

How to prepare for the visit?

Naturally, it is necessary to wash the car, including the wheels and, of course, the license plate number. Adjust lights, test the wipers, seat belts, sound. Door locks should clearly open and close. Backlash steering must conform to the standards stated by the manufacturer. Of course, the car should be a warning triangle, fire extinguisher, first aid kit (and everything in it to the list, and the drug should not be expired). It is very desirable to come to the tires, the respective season. Setting yourself up to the possibility of a long line, and in general to the seriousness of the event.

What documents need to be, going to the inspection?

This is your passport, driving license, medical certificate, vehicle registration document (or a power of attorney from the owner), a receipt for payment of taxes and payment inspection
First, however, you meet with the inspector, and the car afterwards. So do not forget about your own appearance. It is understood that the documents proving your identity, and driver's license to be valid, ie, not past due.
If your machine has a spetssignalami and advertising signs, you should have an even traffic police permission and agreement with the advertiser.

By the way, we should remember that in addition to the machine on checkup "inspection" and the owner. Therefore, we must take care not only about their appearance, but also have the origin`l documents proving your identity and ownership of the car.



How is tehosmotrr
Long gone are the days of examination "by eye." Cars have become more complex, naturally and control too. On point your machine tool control check on the most important for its security parameters:
• How does the service and parking brakes. Under the new rules, test and operation of the automatic control braking forces and the ABS (if available). Cross off course during braking must be within 0.7 m
• Working steering. Backlash is defined by standard steering manufacturer, in its absence, in the documentation for the car gap can not exceed 10 degrees.
• Working external lights, wipers and washer. Lamps should be blue light.
• Wheels and tires must match the vehicle structure, the height of the tread must not be lower than the norm (in other words, the rubber should not be bald).
• checks the content of harmful substances in the exhaust gases - at idle and higher revs, with defined parameters of CO and CH. If the machine has an oxygen sensor, check comes in three stages with the gas analyzer.
• Fuel and hydraulic fluids should not leak. In this case, check the tightness of all the fluid systems and connections in the crankcase ventilation system.
• All major equipment related to security - the doors, emergency exits, safety belts, towbar, etc. - Will be tested. Naturally, all of this should work.
• Marking of components and assemblies shall comply with the requirements
After a standard test vehicle parts and systems specialist tool control point data was entered in the diagnostic card. When detecting deviations in the system you have to fix them (this gives you 20 days of delay), and then to come back to the inspection station, where your car will test only the comments and no extra charge.
MOT can rob you of a lot of time and effort, so it is very important to properly and efficiently to prepare for it. In the end, you get a voucher for passing inspection ("lobovichok") and safely drive up to the next scheduled visit to the office.
If someone suddenly comes to mind a strange idea "zakosit" inspection, it must be remembered that the absence of the voucher gives the full right inspector removed from the machine room to write a resolution to ban the use of the vehicle, and then send it to the penalty parking. All this will create a lot more problems than the technical inspection.